I woke up early, but I had breakfast at eight. I met two new guests who had arrived the day before, Vitória and Ana, who have also been to many corners of the world. After a few changes of plans, they decided to rent a buggy to glance over the beaches, to get acquainted with the island.
I suggested that they might go to Atalaia Beach, where I was heading anyway, to take advantage of the low tide, and they agreed, what spared me a long hike. I think we arrived there at about 9:15 and, as the low tide was at 9:40, it was a perfect time. Besides, there was no big group from the Ihatur, only a small groups of tourists.
The two ladies did not stay long and thus did not enjoy like I did the pretty colorful fish in the natural pools. I was able to get so close to the fish that the photos could not look good...
It was sunnier today and, as the sunrays reflect on the seabed, they lighted up the corals. Patiently I waited for the opportunity to photograph a shy squirrelfish, always hiding inside a coral. I followed a small white flounder, which was always trying to mimic the sand.
This time, aware of the guidance of the IBAMA, I didn't apply my sunblock and used a t-shirt not to get burned - what is not very effective, of course, as some parts of the body cannot be protected with a mere t-shirt...
I was about 11am when I left, getting a lift from a family from Recife who had rented a taxi to take them around the island, and I went to the Vila dos Remédios. Finally I visited the ruins of the fort, but first I stopped under the shade of a tree to put on some sunblock. The Portuguese constructed many forts like that during the 17th century, the majority on the side of the inner sea, which has more inlets suitable for a safe anchoring. There is a half-day historical tour to learn about the forts and the village, but I did not take it. What fascinated me above all was the view of the beaches from up there.
I walked back to the inn under a strong sun. At about 2pm, the two friends arrived, and told me about their latest diving adventures. Our first stop that afternoon was already set - Sueste Bay. Upon arrival, they went walking along the beach while I waited under a shade. Afterwards, we swam in the bay to the distant area where sea turtles come to feed at high tide. These are hawksbill turtles, that come here but lay eggs on the continent. Without fins, I was slower than they, but I kept on swimming. Twice I saw a turtle, but always a bit far. With the beach so far behind, I thought I had better start swimming back. And then, to my surprise, there was a turtle right below me. Fantastic! I ventured a few shots, even with the low visibilty - probably the water turbidity is due to organic material that may be what attracts the turtles.
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At the viewpoint of Lion Beach, Felipe set up the hammock he had been carrying for a place like this and we stayed there for the sunset, but once again it disappeared early behind the clouds. We made a quick stop at Boldró Beach and at the Fort of São Pedro, now almost at night and with the moon, nearly full, right above Peak Hill.
Dinner was again at Linda Lanches, this time pizza with graviola juice. Only after that I went back to the inn and took my shower. Later the guys arrived with the diskette containing the images from my dive, but as André was busy and it was about time to go to IBAMA, we did not see them.
The lecture was about Fernando de Noronha National Marine Park, which extends for almost the whole island. An IBAMA inspector - they are only eleven - showed slides and talked about the animals and plants of the island, including introduced animals like the teju or tejú lizard, and gameleira, an endemic species of tree.
We bade farewell to Felipe, poor one, already having to return to reality! I would still have some more time to enjoy the island.
Day 6 - Another memorable dive, with the chance of a huge grouper, a ray, some barracudas, lots of angelfish, but... no shark.
I started my day early, having a light breakfast before leaving for the dive. I met Vitória and Ana at breakfast, they were also going to dive, as well as a couple from Rio who was also at the inn, Priscila and Pedro. But they went with another operator, Noronha (later I saw them at the same diving site we were).
When I arrived at the harbour, I saw a boat leaving with Evaristo - this time the certified divers went in a boat, while the ones taking the "baptism" went in another - again the Alquimista II. The diving site was again at Rata Island, but at a place called Ressurreta. This time underwater photography was not offered, only footage, so it's good to ask in advance.
I went with the second group, having the same guide, José Renato. Many corals extended like shelters, beneath which I had the hope I would see a shark, but nothing! It was possible to go under these shelters and in one there was a hole above, through which we passed, it was so cool! The fish were huge, beautiful, and lots of black angelfish (there were already many near the surface, but smaller than down there). Almost at the end, the thrill was enhanced, with a grouper that was over 3ft long, a small group of barracudas, some trumpetfish and a not very big ray. This time our maximum depth was around 25ft and again it lasted 35min. Afterwards, while a third group went down, I snorkeled by the boat. We were back at about 11:30am.
Back at the inn, I could finally kill my curiosity about the images of the previous dive. I chose one of the images and sent it to some friends - I hope I have managed to leave friends at the office very jealous! A reinforcement on the sunblock - it was brightly sunny during the whole day - and I went to Atlantis' office in the village, to pay for the dive and get my "certificate of baptism". As someone said, I will end up having more hours of dive than many certified divers...
I had lunch at Biu's Restaurant, a varied buffet, including juices and desserts for just around US$5.50. At the same table, the guide who was leading the Ilhatur together with some people from Brasília. I learnt that electric showers are forbidden, to save energy. I already knew that most inns did not have hot water - mine has from solar collectors.
I went back to the inn to keep off the sun for a while, leaving at about 2:30 for IBAMA, only to know if there was any chance of taking a guided tour with them the next morning - their tours are only on Wednesdays and Fridays - but I would not be able to be back in time for my flight. A pity, as I was told their ecological tours are very good.
I went then to the secluded Americano Beach, a hike in the woods and among rocks, along a poorly signposted trail. In many places they are placing boards indicating the trails, but in this case there was no board at all, I even thought I had taken the wrong way when I arrived at some rocks that overviewed the beach, but allowed no access to it. I finally found the way, lowering myself under tree branches and cautiously avoiding the cacti. No wonder this beach is always empty!
But it is gorgeous, small but pleasant. Just the thought that probably nobody else would show up gives a desire of not leaving it anymore. But I still wanted to go back to Boldró Beach, because I was told at IBAMA that turtles also go there to feed. At low tide, I believe it's possible to find a way through the rocks, but I had to go all the way up the trail to the road.
The tide was still going up when I arrived at Boldró. On the western end of the beach, the sand was being almost completely washed by the sea. I watched and watched, and I believe I saw a couple of turtle heads on the surface from time to time, but I didn't consider the sea calm enough to go swimming alone. I only enjoyed the view, walking along the beach and having a pleasant last afternoon on the island.
Looking for the last sunset, I went to the other end of the beach to check the view from there. I found a trail, this time well marked, that climbs the rocks, allowing a nice view of the beach with the Two Brothers far in the background, so I decided to stay there. I even climbed the trail a little further to explore the trail and, in a hole in a rock, I saw a viuvinha, a black bird with a few white feathers on its head.
I sat on a rock, enjoying the end of the afternoon, without the expected red-sun-setting-on-the-sea, but it was nice. When I walked back to the inn, there was a beautiful moon. Full moon would be only the next night, but that one left nothing to be desired. A treat.
Once again my dinner was at Linda Lanches, a sandwich with mangaba juice. Then I went to the lecture, with the moonlight lighting up my way. It was amazing how I could see details of Peak Hill. I met Evaristo at the hall, who told me he had had another great dive.
The lecture was about sea turtles, presented by a guy who works at TAMAR. The Project, that began 18 years ago, nowadays have many sites along the coast of Brazil, always trying to involve the local population to help protect the nesting sites of the five species of sea turtles that occur in Brazil: green (the only one that lays eggs in Noronha), hawksbill, loggerhead, leatherback and olive ridley. Only one or two out of every one thousand turtles that hatch reach adulthood. Many die still on the beach, eaten by predators like crabs, but the vast majority die at the sea. With means that are not yet clear, they always return to the place where they hatched when it's their turn to lay eggs.
I took a ride with Evaristo to go to the village. I wanted to see the beaches illuminated by the moonlight, so I walked to the fort. Too beautiful, a perfect touch for the end of my trip, it was even possible to discern the corals in the sea. I wondered if it was possible to enter Atalaia's natural pool under such a moonlight. The negative point to all this was the music that came from Bar do Cachorro, where I went afterwards to say goodbye to Evaristo. A gorgeous scene like that deserved maybe a piano and violins, or anything better than the forró and axé-music that they play there... I was told that the next night there would be a beach party. Walking back to the inn under the moonlight and an amazingly starry sky was simply wonderful.
Day 7 - Goodbye, Fernando de Noronha. I hope men are wise enough to keep this island so special.
I woke at dawn and left at about 6:30. I should have left earlier, but I thought it was still too dark and I waited for daybreak, what happened quite suddenly. The way to the Baía dos Golfinhos (Dolphins Bay) is long. About half an hour along BR-363, then further 20min on a dirt road, in which I ended up getting a blister on the sole of my left foot.
I was the only tourist at the overlook, where I found the researchers of the Center for Studies of the Spinner Dolphin and the film crew that was working with them that week. I kept quiet on a rock, ears attentively catching all the explanations that were given. The dolphins arrive there very early and swim in groups around the bay, jumping from time to time. The overlook stands atop a cliff that surrounds the bay and only the researchers are allowed to go down and even swim to identify the dolphins. There were approximately 50 dolphins. They learn to jump when they are around six months old. I stayed there for about 90min, then I went back to the inn. I was lucky to get a ride, because the blister was starting to bother.
I arrived at the inn still in time to have a breakfast. I found out that my flight was at 12:15pm and not 2:10pm as I had been confirmed by the phone! Thus, my plans of ending the morning with a long bathing at the sea of Conceição Beach had to be reviewed - I only had time to stay for about 15min there, enough for a quick plunge and the last photos.
No assigned seats at the plane on the fligh back. The guy at the airline counter said that it would not be possible to see much, as the airplane doesn't make turns over the island as on arrival, but the best view would be the right side. Indeed, from this side I was able to see Atalaia, Sueste and Lion beaches, under a strong sun that emphasized the colors of the sea. Goodbye, Fernando de Noronha. Better still, see you!
Comments? Suggestions?